Thursday 1 November was another national holiday for All Saints Day. This is day when life in the village stops and all the families go the cemeteries and decorate their loved ones’ graves with flowers. Needless, to say, the flower seller is at the entrance, no doubt making a fortune in the process. It is a wonderful event and every grave is decorated. Several local families wanted me to see their family graves and join in with their celebrations.

Well! Not much to report really. I am now in a regular routine of study, reading and reflection with the odd visit to the local Taberna! On the whole the weather is good (I’m still wearing ‘T’ shirts).

On Sunday evening I went into a severe depression when Lewis Hamilton didn’t win the world title. I watched it on Spanish TV and the commentators really wanted Alonso to win. It’s just not fair!

I’ll put on more photos at the end of the week.

I've managed to download my photos today. One view of the beach and the other of a 'dead' scooter which appealed to me!

FRIDAY 12 OCTOBER
Today, it rained & rained and rained. The thunder storm lasted 26 hours and dumped three inches of rain on us. The roads were difficult to negotiate. Falling rocks and boulders (some very big) slipped down the banking onto the road from Aigues to the coast. The main celebration for Columbus Day in El Compello (the town on the coast about 9km from Aiques) re-enacting the Moors and the Christians was cancelled. All in all a miserable day!

SATURDAY 13 / SUNDAY 14 OCTOBER / MONDAY 15 OCTOBER

The sun is now shining again. Hooray!!! The shops are now open and the clearing up after the rain begins. I went to the Saturday evening mass in the village church.

THURSDAY 11 OCTOBER

This morning it is raining. Tomorrow, Friday, is another national holiday (this one is Christopher Columbus Day - I'm not sure what the one on Tuesday was) and so the internet access will be shut from Friday to Monday inclusive. Therefore, my next entry will be on Tuesday.

WEDNESDAY 10 OCTOBER
Got on with my study and reflection. Over the last few days, I have read the book 'The Farmer of inglewood Forest' by Elizabeth Helme. It was written in 1796 and well worth a read although needless to say it is no longer in print - although I am sure Amazon or ebay would be able to trace a copy. If you would like a copy of my review of the book and one or details about the life of Elizabeth Helme, then email me on revdesmith@hotmail.com and I will send you a copy.

In the evening I went for a walk towards the mountains. The photo is of Aigues where I am staying. The other photo is of the village church where I went to mass.

After the weekend, and Monday when everything shuts in Spain, and Tuesday which was a Bank Holiday (I think it might have been Columbus Day but I’m not sure) I’ve now been able to get to my internet shop to keep you updated with events.

FRIDAY 5 OCTOBER
Today, we were lazy which was most enjoyable.


SATURDAY 6 OCTOBER

Before it got too hot, Jeremy and I went for a walk from the village into the mountains It was gorgeous and the views fantastic. Returning to the village, we noticed hundreds and thousands of millipedes on the tarmac. It took a lot of concentration to avoid stepping on them. Jeremy reliably informed me that it was their mating season and that is why they were on the tarmac (see photo!)

After joining, Steve and Carol (from Wetheral) at their home, we went to Saturday Evening Mass at the local church.

SUNDAY 7 OCTOBER
We left Aigues early to get Jeremy to Alicante Airport for 9.30am. I was back at Aigues at 10.30am and settled down to my rhythm of study and prayer. It was a lovely sunny day.

MONDAY 8 OCTOBER
After breakfast went for a walk on the outskirts of the village and then returned home.


TUESDAY 9 OCTOBER
Another lovely day. I went for a walk early in the morning before returning for studt etc. Before supper, I went for a drive to Rellu further up the mountains. The light wasn’t great but I took a few photos which I don’t think does the view justice.

TUESDAY 2 OCTOBER
From Ax-les-Thermes, we travelled about 20 miles before we reached Andorra, high up in the Pyrenees. This principality is very small, being about 20 miles by 2 miles, which is a valley. The main source of income is from skiing, tourism and finance. Petrol, diesel, cigarettes and alcohol are very cheap. They speak Andorran which is a mixture of Spanish and French but just seemed liked double dutch to us! Spectacular scenery and gorgeous weather.

Then we continued through the mountains and stayed overnight just south of Barcelona. We had a lovely meal in a local bar where the owners were watching Stuttgard v Barcelona. Of course, we supported Barcelona (Henry plays for them now) and as a result we were given free liquers at half-time. Barcelona won.

WEDNESDAY 3 OCTOBER
Joined the main Mediterranean Coast Road and arrived at Aigues (NW of Alicante) early afternoon. We settled into the flat. It was very warm.

THURSDAY 4 OCTOBER
We took time to get settled in. The weather changed and we had a thunderstorm in the morning. Elsewhere in Spain there had been torrential rain causing a lot of damage in Granada and Seville. I think that Jeremy and I should be appointed chief rain-makers for the UN as wherever we travel in the world, there seems to be unexpected rain. During the afternoon, the weather gradually improved until the sun shone again.

I sorted out all my books so that I can begin my study etc. Internet access has been arranged in the nearby town and I can go there whenever I want. However, I will be unable to get there tomorrow as the road will be shut due to a special bike race happening on these mountain roads. So, I guess my next entry will be on Monday.

SUNDAY 30 SEPTEMBER
Went to the Taize Eucharist before setting off South. A lovely sunny day. We stayed the night at a little town about 30 miles north of Montpellier.

MONDAY 1 OCTOBER
Today, we have been tourists! Got up early and continued our journey south. Arrived at Ax-les-Thermes at midday. Ax-les-Thermes is a little spa town nestling in the Pyrenees just before Andorra. We booked in a small hotel (view from the bedroom as photo) for the night and then went exploring.





We followed a road into the Pyrenees up to a mine which was extracting talc in a very big way. Parked the car and walked up the mountain track to about 8000 feet. The views were amazing.













Coming down we were very confused. There were tadpoles in the pool, crocuses flowering, lambs in the field and a temperature of 25C – It must be Spring!!


We had a lovely dinner in town and met a very lively Irish couple - they thought we were fluent in French!!!!

Update as below. It might be a few days before I can internet access as we shall be ‘on the road for the next four days’.

THURSDAY 27 SEPTEMBER
We went to night prayer at Taize which was very moving. Again there were hundreds of young people there to take part in the third act of worship of the day. At the end of the ‘official’ part of the worship many of the young people stayed behind taking part in a vigil.

FRIDAY 28 SEPTEMBER
Wet again! Nevertheless we managed a good walk in the afternoon. Saw two dead adders on the road - at least they were dead!


SATURDAY 29 SEPTEMBER
Went out on the bikes which are included with the cottage. There are four bikes here: a man’s, woman’s, child’s and a young person’s mountain bike. Unfortunately for Jeremy, the man’s bike only had a chain in three bits and so he chose the mountain bike which was, of course, too small for him. We set off for Cluny 14 miles away along a special cycle track ‘Voie Vert’ which has been made from a disused railway track. We were happily pedalling along when Jeremy noticed that his back tyre was flat. Fortunately, we had remembered to take the puncture repair kit with us, and so we took off the tyre and inner tube only to find that it was the valve leaking. We took the cap off my bike and that seem to work, at least for 3 or 4 miles or so. Then, the saddle/seat began to hurt. It was a lady’s seat which Jeremy found most uncomfortable (I’m sure the blokes will know what I mean!). Finally, on the way home, his handlebars came off which didn’t help his steering. Anyway, 30 miles later we arrived back all in one piece at the cottage.

Whilst at Cluny, Jeremy was able to explore the Abbey which had done on Tuesday. In the evening, we had to clean the cottage ready for leaving in the morning. We will go to the Taize Eucharist in th e morning before setting off south towards the Pyranees.

TUESDAY 25 SEPTEMBER

Today, was spent with a detailed tour of the ruins of Cluny Abbey. In its day it was one of the biggest churches. The film presentation was in 4D which was amazing and included a full reconstruction of the building. You felt that you were really walking down the aisles etc. The commentary was in French but I understood the main bits – I must be getting better at the lingo!

The Flour Store (Tour du Moulin)

The view from the Cheese Tower (Tour des Fromages)

South of Cluny is Berze-la-Ville . St Hugh of Cluny lived here towards the end of his life. The 12th century chapel of the priory was decorated with Romanesque frescoes. The ones in the chancel are well preserved. The Clunaic artists who worked at Berze were directed by Bendictine painers from Monte Casino in latium. It is a magnificent example of the art of Cluny.

View looking east down what would have been the nave of the abbey. The abbey was 581ft long. It consisted of a nave, four aisles, two transepts, five belfries, two towers, 301 windows and 225 decorated stalls.



View looking over Berze

WEDNESDAY 26 SEPTEMBER
Journeyed to Lyon airport to pick up Jeremy. The plane was on time and we were back home mid-afternoon. The weather has turned wet!

THURSDAY 27 SEPTEMBER
Weather still wet! This wasn’t meant to happen! Jeremy enjoying looking round the village whilst I get on with my work before nipping down to the village to get this on the internet and then setting off for Taize.

MONDAY 24 SEPTEMBER

Went to midday prayer at Taize. This time there must have been between 750 and 850 people worshipping, most of whom were under 25. I then met Brother Stephen and his family from Milburn in the community cottage and shared the community lunch together. It was a good and enjoyable time together.

I've downloaded the photos from the past week. I am now off to Taize again for midday prayer and lunch with Brother Stephen.

SATURDAY 15 SEPTEMBER

At 5am, I set off for Folkestone and the Channel Tunnel. I arrived at 11.30am in plenty of time for the 2.20pm train (the cheapest one of the day) only to be told that the trains were running one hour late. However, the chap put me on an earlier train and I left Folkestone at 12.50pm, one and a half hours ahead of schedule! By the time I reached Calais and adjusted my watch for the time difference I didn’t know what time of day it was.

Stayed the night in a small family run hotel in Arras about 100km from Calais (making 450 miles in the day). I went to the Saturday Mass at the local church.


SUNDAY 16 SEPTEMBER

Set off for another day’s driving – only 350 miles today. Arrived at the village of St Gengoux le National about 8km from Taize and 15 km from Cluny. Located the cottage and settled in (as photo).







MONDAY 17 SEPTEMBER

Explored the mediaeval village of St Genoux le National. It used to be called St Genoux le Royale after the visit of Le Roi St Louis but after the revolution became St Genoux le National – c’est las vie!
Picture of village as phoyo.

Visited Cluny where there is a Benedictine Abbey. For several centuries this abbey was one of the most important spiritual capitals of mediaeval Europe. It was only replaced as the largest church in the Christian world by the building of St Peter’s Rome in the sixteenth century. To this day, people come from all over the world to admire the remains of the famous abbey church, the towers of the enclosure and the 18th century monastic buildings.





Hints of Autumn






TUESDAY 18 SEPEMBER

I made my first visit to Taize. Taize hosts tens of thousands of young people from all over the world every summer as they meet to pray. In 1940, Pastor Schultz (Brother Roger) established an ecumenical community which now numbers over 90 brothers, who take lifelong vows and are drawn from various Christian Churches (catholic and Prostestant) and from over 20 countries. Their mission is to be involved worldwide with young people in the search for unity and reconciliation. The brothers organise youth meetings throughout the world. Pope John-Paul visited Taize in 1986.

In 2005, Brother Roger was fatally stabbed during worship – stabbed by a deranged woman. You may recall how the world was stunned with the news of his death. Photo of his grave aside.



For more information on Taize visit their website at http://www.taize.fr/




WEDNESDAY 19 SEPTEMBER

Visited Paray le Mondial where there is a Basilique du Sacre Coeur which is considered to be one of the finest examples of religious architecture. Many religious orders have communities here which has become one of the great centres of Christianity. Pope John-Paul 11 visited Paray in October 1986.



THURSDAY 19 SEPTEMBER


I met with Brother Stephen at Taize. His father, the Revd Wilf Braithwaite, is a former vicar of Lanercost, who spent his retirement in the Penrith Deanery and his brother Bernard who lives at Milburn.

Brother Stephen has been a member of the community for 26 years. His calling first came as a teenager in the Carlisle Diocese through the local parish activities and the deanery and diocesan youth work especially through St John’s in the Vale Youth Centre. He is deeply committed to work with young people. It was good to learn more about the workings of the community and how the brothers relate to the outside world.

Also, I learned about the local RC parish of Taize. It is now one of 16 churches in a group and until recently this group was without a priest. Now, one has been appointed – aged 68 – which is young for the French Church. Each church celebates the Eucharist once every 16 weeks – on the other weeks the congregation travel to one of the other 15 churches. The care of the church building, everyday pastoral care, baptism and wedding preparation, taking funerals are all undertaken by the laity who receive some training.

At 12.30pm all activity ended as people, young and old, from many nations flocked for midday prayer. It was a wonderful half-hour. So many Christians joining with the brothers of the community, experiencing the symbolism of simple ritual and light, participating of the Taize chants, experiencing the simple liturgical form, listening to the few words of scripture and prayer in different languages, entering the profound depth of the silence, I was caught up into the heart of God’s presence. The depth of spirituality was conveyed in the new Taize chant and its deep relevance to today’s world:
God is forgiveness.
Dare to forgive and God will be with you.
God is forgivenss.

Most impressive was the lack of intrusive words and instruction during the liturgy. For instance we had the chant book in our hands but the numbers of the chants appeared unobtrusively on an electronic hymnboard. How about changing our hymnboards to this new electronic version!!

Group of young people who gathered informally to sing chants.

FRIDAY 21 SEPTEMBER

Today, I ventured to the Haut-Jura Natural Park near the border with Switzerland. The landscape is Alpine. I followed a walk down a secluded valley to a waterfall or cascade 164 ft high (see photo). Then, after winding my way up the mountain pass to about 4,400 ft through a forest of fir trees to Col de la Faucille, suddenly round a corner the snow covered Mont Blanc appeared on the horizon which was just breathtaking. Well worth the visit just for that!

SATURDAY 22 SEPTEMBER

Located the internet access at La Mairie (Town Hall) and I was able to connect my laptop. However, I left it a bit late in getting there as it closed at 12 noon. I had lunch at the restaurant in the village which was excellent.

Now to lunch at the local restaurant. Only 12 euros (about £8) for starter, main course, cheese, dessert, coffee and wine. I'll need a 200 mile walk after this lifesSUNDAY 23 SEPTEMBER

SUNDAY 23 SEPTEMBER

Went to the Sunday Eucharist at Taize which was a moving experience. Hundreds of people were there from all over the world. The use of a simple liturgy was most impressive. Wine tasting in the afternoon at the local Cave des Vignerons which was most enjoyable – particularly as it was within walking distance! It is wonderful to be in the heart of Burgandy country.

After finishing the walk, Jeremy and I set off for home at 5pm. However, there had been a bad car accident on the A82 three miles south of Fort William and we were in a queue of traffic for 1 1/2 miles. After various other diversions, we arrived back home at 11.15pm. It had been a long day!

The walk was wonderful. So many 'best' bits and the worst bit was definitely the east side of Loch Lomond. The places I stayed were all excellent in their respective ways and I can definitely recommend them if you fancy a quick stroll!

Elmbank Guest House, Drymen - 01360 661016
Passfoot, Balmaha - Betty & Joe Twaddle
* Inversnaid Lodge - Andre & Linda Goulancourt - 01877 386254
Beinglas Farm - 01301 704281
* West Highland Lodge, Crianlarich - Paul & Jen Lilly - 01838 300283
* Inveroran Hotel - 01838 400220
* Kingshouse Hotel - 01855 851259
1, Kearan Avenue, Kinlochleven - Bob & Chris - 01855 831452

* included an excellent evening meal

TUESDAY 04 SEPTEMBER

Expecting a wet start to the date, we were pleasantly surprised that it was cloudy but dry. The first hour was quite steep and then the path became undulating.

Looking back over Kinlochleven

I met up with Jeremy at 12.15pm. He had walked 6 1/2 miles and I had walked 7 1/2. We had lunch and then continued towards Fort William.

Red deer grazing

After reaching the outskirts of Fort William there is about 1 1/2 miles to complete along the road, although it feels like ten miles. Then, at last the end is in sight and we reach the offical end of the West Highland Way. The photo shows me together with Brian & Wendy from Milton Keynes.

95 miles done and no blisters!!

MONDAY 03 SEPTEMBER

Beautiful day. Set out at full steam to climb the Devil's Staircase. Every one had warned me this would be difficult. Ken Bonsor (from Armathwaite) told me it was much easier than the beginning of Skiddaw - he was right - it was less than half the difficulty.

After that it was a wonderful walk with magnificent view of the Glen Coe mountains. I saw lots of familiar faces along the way.

Arrived at Kinlochleven at 2pm. Jeremy arrived at 5.30pm. He was a bit cross because I hadn't given him details of where we were staying - and the mobile phone signal wasn't working. Anyway, I found him loitering in the village and all was well! We went to the pub for tea and probably we stayed too long. Met up others I'd met on the way.

Bob & Chris at the B & B have very kindly let me have the use of their laptop to update the blog. So, tomorrow should be the last day. Jeremy is going to take the car to Fort William and then walk to meet me for lunch.

Now, only 14 miles to go...

SUNDAY 02 SEPTEMBER

Today was cloudy and dry. Hooray! - no waterproofs needed. It was a lovely walk with spectacular views. The sun came out and so did the midges!

Another waterfall.

The ten miles were completed by 1.30pm - either I'm getting a bit fitter or the walk was easier than previous days - probably a bit of both. This is a typical view during the day's walk.

At the Kingshouse Hotel I have internet access but no 'thing' for my camera disc. I resigned myself to the fact that the blog will only be poperly completed on my return home.

The view from the hotel.

Now only 23 miles to go...

SATURDAY 01 SEPTEMBER

Very kindly, Paul, from the West Highland Lodge, drove me into Tyndrum to rejoin the WHW. Waterproofs were needed today! Set off in the drizzle and by late morning it was very wet and the mist was down in the valley. Arrived at Bridge of Orchy by 11.30am but I didn't stop and pressed on.




View of the hills in the mist through the drizzle









By 12.15pm the sun came out and by the time I arrived at the Inveroran Hotel my clothes were dry. The photo is of the Inveroran Hotel in the distance - the only building for miles around.





Staying at the hotel was a church walking group from Saline, Fife which included Kathy, Jean Parker's sister (from Pringle House, Skelton). That group were walking the WHW in stages over several weekends. Also, at the hotel are several other familiar faces of people struggling along the way!

Now, only 33 miles to go...

FRIDAY 31 AUGUST





Set out at 8.45am, the day being cloudy but dry. The path meandered along the valley and through woodland – a gentle walk after the last couple of days.
















We passed lots of waterfalls.










Also, passed the ruin of St Fillan's church.














After Crianlarich we had lunch in the sunshine. Then we had a shower or two but nothing very heavy and eventually reached Tyndrum at 3pm. It was a delightful day's walking,


Then, we experienced a problem. The B & B was back in Crianlarich. When I was booking, I had troublr accommodation in Tyndrum but I'd thought it was on teh outskirts of Tyndrum and not Crianlarich!!). Nevertheless, Vicky and I thought we would catch a bus but it wouldn’t take Phoenix. We had to resort to a taxi – there was no way I was going to walk! Arriving at the B & B they gave me use of their computer but the internet access failed. I’ll try again tomorrow. I am over half-way there.

Now, 42 miles to go…

THURSDAY 30 AUGUST

The day started cloudy and dull. At last I was offered porridge for breakfast – I love porridge!. Set out at 9am still feeling weary from yesterday’s trek. It was a very rough path (see photo) following the shores of Loch Lomond but it was still easier then yesterday.

I got into a gentle rhythm and then I heard strange noises coming from the bracken. Looking up the hillside, about 20 feet away, was a family of wild goats playing. I tried to get a photograph (see aside) and if you look closely enough the eyes of the goats can just be seen! Seeing their horns, there was no way I was going nearer for a better shot. I continued along the path turned the corner and I was faced with a black goat with enormous horns. I don’t know which of us was more scared. One thing was for certain, there was no way I was going to back track and so I very carefully made my way round him and as soon as I could ran for it!

In the meantime, Vicky had taken my suitcase to the next stop at Inverarnan. She then walked with her dog Phoenix to meet me. When we met we had lunch and continued the day’s journey.

Now, 54 miles to go.

WEDNESDAY 29 AUGUST

I woke up to a beautiful morning – a cloudless sky, sun shining and Loch Lomond looking idyllic.








Set off from Balmaha at 9am and life couldn’t get much better then this.







My first sighting of a highland cow.

But the way became ‘the steep and rugged path’ undulating all along the east shore of the Loch. It took me until one o’clock to walk the seven miles to Rowardennan. I was very tired and I was certainly not looking forward to the next seven miles. With grim determination and a pack of Quiggley’s mint cake I scrambled along the path to Inversnaid arriving at 5pm. I was very tired.
Inversnaid Lodge is beautifully situated on the hillside and my bedroom has a bay window looking over the Loch. Vicky very kindly brought me my suitcase and we had dinner together. The food and accommodation excellent.

The next problem was getting an internet connection. One of the owners of Inversnaid Lodge, Andre, very kindly let me use his laptop to enter the blog.

Now to bed and 61 miles to go…